Sadly I don’t have any photos on me catching a wave, but I have some awesome photos from my surfing experiences so far. So… as an introduction to surfing for all you newbies out there! Fear not, I too was a newbie… But now I am a pro! No.. not really, but. I can catch a wave or two.
Sun tan lotion is important! You don’t want to burn, and you will because you will be out there in the water for ages, paddling and surfing really exposed to the sun! Lotion yourself up on all the places where your body is exposed.
Surfboards can be massive and hard to carry. Find the right way for you, but be careful of turning around. The biggest problem you will have, is the wind. Hold on tight!
My friend Junior has a brilliant surfer truck, so he always has his gear ready, for whenever he wants to do a spontaneous surf, morning, lunch, evening or night… under a full moon.
Junior said to me, when I was really nervous, DON’T WORRY! The most important thing is to HAVE FUN! And not to stress about catching a wave, and to stand up on the first go.
Be fearless, everybody does it! Kids in Hawai’i learn to surf from an early age, and have their own little boards. Some parents surf with their kids in front of them on the board. But you’ve got to be quite good to do that.
First time surf, pick a place with long ‘shouldered’ waves and not chopped up ones, they are easier to catch and won’t break up too soon. Junior took me to White plains on Oahu, where the waves aren’t too big, and they are wide.
The wax makes it easier to stand on top of the board, so it’s not all slippery. I don’t really know what kinds are the best, but Junior likes one with a tropical flavour.
Man! Look at that! Doesn’t it look fun?! YES…! It IS fun… it’s just something that you have to be prepared for.. 90% of the surfing experience, is PADDLING. Your arms will get SO tired, constantly paddling against the waves to get further out to the big lovely waves.
Take it step by step, don’t try and pop up on the first go. Once you have cought a wave, just lift yourself up to a cobra stance. Next time, try and lift one or two knees up. And stand on your knees, holding the board. Next time, try and go from cobra, knees to lifting a leg up, and see if you can stand!
Those skintight tops that you see surfers wear are rash guards, so that your skin doesn’t get blistered or a rash from lying on top of the waxed board. Junior doens’t wear one anymore, because he’s sooo cool.
The bigger the board, the easier. I LOOOOVE this board, and I think it likes me, as it let me stand on it several times.